Colicchio, Please Pack Your Knives and Go

September 17, 2007

It may seem to the casual reader that I have a bone to pick with cooking shows, but that’s just because they deserve it so much. I happen to think Bravo’s Top Chef is one of the best reality TV shows going, but even I’m having a hard time swallowing what head judge, Tom Colicchio, has been serving lately. This season, Colicchio’s behavior has gone from endearing to simply annoying. He’s been freaking the contestants out with his tendency to hover in the Top Chef kitchen while they are cooking. His criticisms of their food will go from “that was bad” one moment to “that was the single worst thing I’ve ever eaten” the next. He tends to think that no challenge is unfair, even ones that have little, if anything to do with a restaurant chef’s day to day job. And call me crazy, but any classically trained chef that doesn’t know how to properly hold a knife and fork, has no business telling others how to do their job.

There are large parts of Colicchio, and his participation on the show, that I enjoy. He apparently knows his stuff when it comes to cooking and is not afraid to be blunt with the contestants. If things are going south, he’ll let you know, and generally he’s pretty fair when it comes to who is performing and who is falling behind. His presence “grounds” the show from its inherent affected nature and lends credibility to its production. But at the same time, his level of patience has decreased while his need to critique has skyrocketed. The slightest flaw in the contestant’s cooking now has a tendency to set him off. On last week’s episode CJ’s brocoolini turned out to be the worst thing he’d ever eaten on the show. Never mind the fact that none of the chefs had ever used an oven on a commercial airliner before, or even prepared meals that had certain height requirements (yes, you read that right, height requirements). Colicchio seems to be becoming more and more jaded with each season, and I fear his likeability is suffering. It’s easy to sit in judgement on other people’s creations, and since I’ve never actually seen him cook, I don’t know if he’s just talking out his ass, or he has the truffles to back it up.

I’d like to suggest that Bravo inject a bit of humility into Top Chef by announcing a “Contestant’s Revenge” episode. I propose that for one episode, Colicchio, Padma, Gail and any other guest judges who have the courage, compete in their own mini challenge. They’ll get an impossibly small budget to work with, a miniscule amount of time in which to prepare and compete, and then be forced to serve their concoctions to the Top Chef contestants and a few snotty food critics thrown in for good measure. They say you don’t really know a chef until you’ve sauteed a mile in his pan. How about it Tom, can you take it as well as dish it out? I think we’d all like to see. In the meantime, I know a great place you can go and hone your table manners. I hear they have an opening.

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3 Responses to “Colicchio, Please Pack Your Knives and Go”

  1. Erwin Chuk Says:

    Well put! I’ll have to say that I’d sooner see Gail and/or Padma go. Tom, for his part, actually is a chef and has been a good asset on the show. Because of his background, I am more willing to forgive his harsh criticisms and likewise with Bourdain. They’re more constructive than the variety offered by Gordon Ramsay. Also, I would say this season of Top Chef is the weakest and I have often found myself wondering what is up (goofy challenges aside). I’ve been hoping for something like a “Contestant’s Revenge” but with Tom pitted against other celebrity chefs/guest judges.

  2. Ged Says:

    Erwin,

    Have you noticed that Gail hasn’t been seen in the last several weeks? Both Mindy and I were wondering if they ditched her permanently or if she is just having scheduling conflicts.

    I happen to agree with you regarding the judges. I’d take Tom over Padma or Gail any day of the week. He’s just been getting on my nerves for some reason lately. The Restaurant Wars episode was particularly irksome.

    I have to say I disagree about Gordon however. The chefs on Hells Kitchen learn more in one week about what it’s like in the real world that the contestants on Top Chef do all season. Julia is living proof that Gordon makes a good teacher, although he’s an ass most of the time, when praise comes, it is well earned.

  3. yehwan Says:

    Unfortunately, my fear was realized last week. I had noticed Gail was still making blog posts on Top Chef so I had an idea she wasn’t gone for good. It seems she was trying to make up for lost time. =(

    Re: Ramsay. I just wish they would feature him a bit more a la Colicchio debriefs after a kitchen walkthrough. I enjoy the analysis of the process as opposed to Ramsay’s reactive expletives. So it comes as no surprise that I enjoyed Ramsay’s new show, Kitchen Nightmares, where we see him talking with each individual.


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